Here's to a Prince of a Road Trip
Go north to Alaska where the fishing and scenery are fine

By Roy Ferguson

PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND, Alaska - A slight drizzle fell from low clouds as we docked at the Hollis Ferry terminal
July 26 following a 2,500-mile drive from Colorado up through the wilds of British Columbia.

The drive ends at Prince Rupert, British Columbia, the start of one of the continent's longest - and most expensive
- ferry rides north to the big island. The only other way to reach Prince of Wales, a 175-mile-long tangle of forests
and streams, is by float plane or wheeled aircraft from Ketchikan.

There are many reasons to make this long, yet highly interesting, trip. Maybe it's the lush rain forest, or perhaps
the wolves, bears and other wildlife. Some people go for the solitude, but most travel to Prince of Wales for the
excellent fishing.

With my wife Patty and our dog Opal, I next drove our truck and pull-along camper to Craig (the principal city on
the island, population 2,100) on the best and longest stretch of paved highway, 32 miles, to get gas and supplies.
Most of the other 1,100-plus miles of roadway that lace a 155-mile-long island, third-largest in the United States,
are made of gravel and dirt, mostly old logging roads. In a setting right out of "Northern Exposure," forget about
shopping malls, theaters and fast-food restaurants.

The things that do count in Craig are the full-service boat harbor, Ruth Ann's restaurant and hotel, a laundromat, [large
grocery store, a bookstore, pizza shoppe,] car and boat rentals.

While traveling along the road system you will encounter many rivers, creeks and lakes, which offer outstanding
fishing. Fished mostly by locals, the Harris River is approximately the same size as the North Platte River as it
enters Wyoming. The Maybeso Creek is narrow like Clear Creek in Denver.

Unlike Clear Creek, the Maybeso is full of returning salmon. I put away my fly rod and enjoyed watching Opal, my
bird dog, playfully wading and "pointing" salmon.

After leaving the mile of paved highway north of Klawock, we headed to Thorn Bay and the river of the same name
and discovered the POW Highway was nothing short of rugged.

There's an 111/2-mile section that is being widened and paved, but this probably won't be finished until next
summer; the remaining 20-plus miles are not scheduled to be finished for five years. Meanwhile, expect plenty
rough and potholes, with lots of adventure. This also is the way to Coffman Cove, Naukati, Whale Pass, Point
Baker, Sarkar River and lakes, Staney, Logjam, Hatchery and Eagle Creek, as well as many others.

Be sure to have extra truck and camper tires with you. I managed to flatten two camper and one truck tire. There
is no AAA service on the island. Carry your own jack and know how to use it, as you might find yourself changing a
flat on your camper late one afternoon by yourself. Yes, I did have company that afternoon. Three black bears
strolled by, but none of them offered help.

Patty and I found a nice out-of-the-way camping spot near the Thorn River. Most campsites are where you
choose to make them. There are two developed forest service campgrounds, Harris River (the newest and best laid
out), and Eagle Nest. The latter has a newly constructed boardwalk with wheelchair access, winding through old
growth forest. A more primitive campsite is located at Staney Creek: two sites, first come, first served. It's just 3
miles off the main road, but the drive will take 45 minutes unless you want to beat your vehicle to death.

The best season for pink and chum salmon is mid-July through late August. Silver salmon start in fresh water
mid-to-late August through September and October, averaging 10 to 16 pounds. The salmon were more than
eager to take a variety of flies, fished both with a floating and sink-tip line.

A wading angler can catch and release an almost limitless number of these three salmon species. But if you want
king salmon, you will need your own boat or hire one of the many charter boats that are available.

While traveling around, make sure to keep a full tank; not all stores will have gas, and you may be surprised that
not all are open during regular business hours. Fuel up everywhere you can. Groceries are available in Craig,
Klawock and Thorn Bay. You're likely to wind up on a few active logging roads. Obey the signs, have a CB radio
with you, or follow a logging truck. There is absolutely no room for your vehicle if you meet a logging truck
head-on.

One day while checking out some great Dolly Varden and cutthroat fishing, my wife and I were treated to an
hour-long demonstration by one of the salmon fishing boats. The crew set nets in a 1-mile circle and began
working it in to make a great haul. The boat almost tipped over with the catch.

Make sure you bring waterproof rain gear as the POW averages 160 inches a year. Remember that you're fishing in
a rain forest. If you prefer, there are national forest cabins along the road system and at many lakes or bays
where you can drive, boat or fly, such as Barnes, Control and Red Bay Lake.

Should you choose not to rough it, there are rooms, bed and breakfasts, cabins, cottages and lodges from $50 all
the way up $1,000 per day per person. By using our camper and cooking many of our meals, our total expenditures
for the entire trip came to approximately $3,500. Much of that went for gasoline and a $1,100 fee to ferry the
truck and oversize camper. The cost to ferry a regular truck camper is about half that.

You'll need to make reservations early if you plan on driving an RV camper on the Alaska ferry system from
mid-June through mid-September. Keep in mind deer season starts Aug. 1. You'll have lots of opportunities to see
wildlife such as black bears, eagles, deer, seals, river otters, maybe even a wolf.

Note: Roy Ferguson will deliver an informative slide presentation on his Prince of Wales experience at the 7 p.m.
April 2 meeting of the Colorado Women's Fly Fishers at Piccolo's Restaurant, 3563 S. Monoco Parkway in Denver,
or the 7 p.m. April 3 meeting of West Denver Trout Unlimited at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds, West Sixth
Avenue at Indiana Street. Both are free and open to the public.

This article provided for you by Alaska Rentals.
http://www.alaskarentals.com
 
 

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